vs. 
photos courtesy of DHC and Villianess
Putting the word “oil” with the word “cleanser” seems like an oxymoron.
Back when I was 16 and using harsh cleansers and toners on my face, I would have laughed at you had you suggested I use an oil cleanser on my oily skin. And then run the other direction. Because putting more oil on an oily face just doesn’t make sense.
Right?
Then about 10 years ago or so, when my !!OMG!! TRY ANYTHING!! phase really got into full gear, I talked with some women (who are now close friends) online about what they used as cleanser. Many of them, who also have oily skin, had tried DHC Deep Cleansing Oil with great success–meaning it didn’t cause breakouts, removed all of their makeup, and cleaned well.
I tried a couple of samples that got floated my way, and liked it. A lot. But I was also a Mary Kay Consultant at the time and felt I should really be using the product I was trying to sell. It wasn’t until about four years ago, when I was no longer a consultant, that I bought a bottle of the Deep Cleansing Oil. I quickly went from “This stuff is nice” to “I never want to use another cleanser ever again.” Yes, it’s that good.
Oil cleansers, in general, don’t lather up (or at least not the ones I’ve ever heard of). While I like bubbles, I have a different philosophy for my face, which is I’ll use whatever works. It doesn’t matter if it foams or not. I just want my face to feel clean when I’m done cleaning it.
Oil cleansers like these are applied to dry skin–you don’t want to get your skin wet before application, or they won’t work. Seriously. Apply and massage into dry skin for one to two minutes, then rinse with warm water. Your skin will not feel oily after you use an oil cleanser; in fact, it will probably feel cleaner than it’s ever felt in your entire life.
I tend to get little blackheads all over my nose and chin, but for the 6 months that I used Deep Cleansing Oil, I noticed that I had fewer blackheads in both places, and my skin never looked dull. The ingredients don’t contain anything that would be helpful for exfoliation, but my skin always felt smoother after using it.
Deep Cleansing Oil has a light scent. If you open a bottle of olive oil and smell it, you pretty much know what DCO smells like, though it’s not quite as heavy as that. But you won’t have the smell of fruit or flowers lingering on your skin all day long from it, nor will your face smell like oil. I always found the scent to be quite relaxing, which led to a five minute face massage when I used it.
So why, you might ask, did I quit using DCO if it is SO fabulous? Good question. When my bottle ran out, I had already started a master’s degree in environmental studies. I was switching every cleaning product in the house, from dish soap to shampoo, over to environmentally friendly products. As much as I love DCO, it has some questionable ingredients. Phenoxyethanol, a preservative, isn’t suspected to be an environmental toxin, but it is limited in its use and exposure levels in Japan and the European union. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, which has a low risk, is still limited in its concentration for cosmetic applications. In all, Deep Cleansing Oil isn’t a horrid product for the environment, but it’s also not the best out there.
Since then, I’ve been searching for a facial cleanser that works as well, with mixed results, many of which you can read about by searching for cleansers in the archives here. But you know how it is when you find the perfect cleanser: nothing can ever compare to it.
A few weeks ago, another friend tipped me off to a small company called Villainess. I was searching for ec0-friendly face masks, and she told me that their masks worked great. Off I went to explore the Villainess site, and lo-and-behold, there was an oil cleanser! Excited, I searched out some reviews (there weren’t any) and asked a couple of people if they’d used DHC and Villainess’s oil cleanser, Datura Slick! Only one person had used both, and she said they both worked about the same.
About six days later, my box from Villainess arrived with Slick! and the mud mask sampler (which I’ll review later). I whipped out Slick!, applied and massaged, and gloried in the feeling of clean, clean skin.
Yes, Slick! works just like DCO, and just as well. I’m alternating between it and a foaming cleanser right now, and I can tell a difference between the two. The foaming cleanser is also for oily skin, but my face feels so much cleaner, and looks brighter and fresher, on the days I use Slick. Even though I’m only using it about twice a week right now, I am already starting to see a difference in the number of those tiny blackheads on my nose and chin.
Slick doesn’t contain olive oil, but uses other fruit and flower extracts/oils to cleanse, so the fragrance, while still light like DCO, is a fruity smell, instead of slightly savory like DCO.
And finally, the ingredients are better. The two non-fruit/flower oils/extracts (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate) don’t rank on the Skin Deep database as showing any environmental or health concerns, though I think it’s because there aren’t any studies on those two ingredients right now.
Slick costs more than DCO, but again, it contains better ingredients. Chemicals are cheap; oils and extracts aren’t.
DHC Deep Cleansing Oil, 6.7 ounces, $26
Ingredients: olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, sorbeth-30 tetraoleate, pentylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, tocopherol, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil
Datura Slick!, 2 ounces, $18
Ingredients: Jojoba Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Rosa canina (Rosehip) Fruit Oil, Prunus (Cherry) Kernel Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (and) Tiare Flower, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Cymbidium Grandiflorum (Orchid) Flower Extract, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil (and) Plumeria Rubra (Frangipani) Flower Extract, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, Tocopherol (Vitamin E)